Rin: There are old tunles carved into the frozen core of Alaskan wilderness. sometimes they are mine shafts dug tooth and nail by sourdoughs itching the rocks from gold fever. Some hollows are old cold war experiments and missile silos. Today Thor and I visited one that was both. We met with a small group and hired a guide to take us down into the ground where the ice over our heads had been frozen as far back as 33,000 years.

In Alaska the cold bites to the bone and the earth is never soft, not even when the midnight sun withers the flora above ground.

Anyone who's ever lived in a place with winter can tell you a seasons piled up dog poo smells pretty strongly when it thaws in the spring. This goes doubly for mammoth poo that hasn't seen the light of day for 30,000 years and then gets dug up.