Keep Marching On by Ben Yamiin
March 29th, 2009 1:47 PMA part of XWØ (Ouidah Ø)
warning, emotionally intense tasking ahead...

Ouidah has one of the most emotionally intense places I've ever visited - the Route des Esclaves, the Route of the Slaves, which runs 4 kilometers from the Portuguese fort, past the Tree of Forgetfulness, to the Door of No Return. Every slave that left Benin's shore (and there were many - the Dahomey Empire was one of the largest supplier of slaves to the New World) walked the Route des Esclaves.
I walked the Route des Esclaves, and I circled the Tree of Forgetfulness, and I walked through the Door of No Return.
The Tree of Forgetfulness is the closest thing we have in the real world to the River Styx - circling it was designed to remove the memories of your past, of your family, of your people, of your language, of your individual identity. It may seem to be just a tree, but imagine being told that by circling this tree, and by passing through this gate, you will never see anyone from your past ever again. Ever. Again.
In the interest of recontextualization, I wanted to use the Route and the Tree and the Door's power for Good, rather than all of the Evil that had stained it for so many years.
I would walk the Route des Esclaves, with broken sandals and no shirt, and write down all the things I wanted to forget in my life, and I would circle the Tree of Forgetfulness, and I would pass through the Door of No Return. Each time I would write a thing I would want to forget, I would take a picture of my surroundings on the Route to aid the aspects of time and linearity.
I started at the Portuguese Fort.

And I began.

"When he told me he didn't want me around anymore."

"When she told me she didn't love me."

"When I told her I loved her when I didn't."

"When I tried to do it."

"When he made me feel stupid."

"When I almost cried when he said it."

"When I should have told her."

"When she never told me."

"When I thought she was the only one who ever would."

"When I looked."

This was the center of the Route. I think this statue is an excellent icon for the entire journey, in the fact that I would have remember all of these things first in order to forget them, and that by putting them here, my act of destruction allows them to continue on.

"When she never said sorry."

"When I never apologized."

"When I took her things without asking."

"When I wrote that note but never gave it to her."

"When they called me that."

"When I paid so much for it."

"When I told her I would call her but I didn't."

"When they destroyed it."

"When they were so cruel."

"When I didn't feel anything."

"When she lied and lied and lied."

"What she did to me."

"That I never told her before she died."
I wrote all of these down on a note, double-sided:


I then returned to the Tree of Forgetfulness:


I circled the tree:



and I buried the note under it.


I walked back to the Door of No Return

And I entered.

I walked down to the sand

and I let the waves wash my feet.

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xw, whywait11 comment(s)
"Ne j'aimais tentent la vente de cette maison" - French
I do not liked the sale of this house. - Terrible English Translation
I'm terrible at translating sentences with possessives of tenses, but I think this means the person who wrote the graffitti was condemning what was once sold here.
My first impulse is to try to fill in the blanks of your story, but it feels very wrong leaping to conclusions about you of all people. Then again, there is something universal to emotions, so maybe it is beautiful that saying so little it conjures so much in our minds about what you've been through. We love you though BwaY.
Merci beaucoup, Waldo.
and as far as the graffiti, it's possible he meant he didn't want to sell the house. There's a scam in west Africa where someone sells someone else a house they don't own. Quite common in Nigeria, I hear. There are signs up there that say "This house is not for sale. Beware 419" (referring to the famous criminal code in Nigerian law for fraud).
I think it's "jamais" like "never" which fits with the do-not-sell scam theory.
And, wow. I love the images after each sentence, their emptiness intensifies each line.
Thanks a lot, Ananas. You're very sweet. Especially in West Africa. Seriously, they're frighteningly sweet here - much more so than in the States.
I like the potent combination of world history and personal history.
Sometimes I lose sight of how important SFØ can be as a structure for making incredible works of art.
Thanks for letting us live this with you.
Dax, that means a lot.
And how is it possible that I miss you a lot when I've only met you for a few moments in my life?
That's just how it goes sometimes, innit.
I actually find this quite offensive. To compare your romantic pain with the torture and death of slaves is horrifying.
I have to agree. This task completion really bothered me. To seek to "recontextualize" a memorial to all the death and pain wrought by the slave trade seems insensitive to me.
I see that a lot of people I really respect have liked this completion, so I really have to wonder--what am I missing?
> warning, emotionally intense tasking ahead...
no kidding.